The Traveling Teacher in The Greek Islands of Naxos, MIlos and Kilomo

Sep 1

A note about my travel blog posts…

But wait, isn’t this a blog about teaching not travel? Well, yes but this is how they are connected. I believe that in order for us to do our jobs well, we have to take care of ourselves first. For some of us that means walks, reading for pleasure, crafting, knitting, yoga, baking and the list goes on. One of the ways I am able to bring my best self to my students each day is by taking time to travel in July. While the trip itself is the main event, the planning and reflecting stages are just as important. Keeping a photo of a place I have visited on my desk keeps me grounded during those moments when my “to dos” pile up or I worry about a student.

I also write these posts to share with anyone who is curious about traveling to these destinations. Reading travel blogs is a significant part of my planning so I like to contribute to the literature out there.

In July, I exchange my teacher bag for a suitcase and head off in search of adventure. This ritual is recent; starting last summer with 10 days in Croatia with my partner, Stu, and a few days alone in Madrid. This year we explored a few Greek islands and Athens and I headed to Barcelona for the solo portion of my trip (more on Athens and Barcelona in future posts). Here are some tips, reflections and highlights.

A note about planning a trip to Greece

This was quite possibly the most difficult trip to plan because there are SO many choices! Islands, ancient sites on the mainland, the Peloponnese peninsula… It was really challenging to narrow it down so that we experienced the culture and history and had time to relax on the beach. Below are a few resources I found helpful

Matt Barrett’s Greece

Greek Travel Secrets with Sandy Papas (website, Facebook group and podcast)

Naxos

Our first destination was the island of Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades group. We chose it because it has ancient sites and beautiful beaches. We stayed at the Galaxy Hotel in Chora which was stunning; white buildings, typical of Cyclades, beautiful grounds and steps away from Saint George Beach. After settling in our room, we walked down to the beach and I stepped into the Aegean Sea. There is nothing quite as delicious as a swim in the sea after long days of travel.

Naxos Historical Sites

Temple of Apollo This site is gorgeous at sunset. Many avoid it then because swarms of people beeline it there but I found it lovely to see all these people gather to witness its beauty. I went again in the daytime when it was less crowded.

With the crowds at sunset — View of Chora from the Temple of Apollo at sunset.

Temple of Apollo in the daytime (minus the crowds)

Venetian Castle- The Castle has been converted to restaurants, art galleries, shops and an archeological museum. The story goes that when the Venetians took over the area, they built this castle up on a hill and designed the streets to be a maze to protect against pirates.

Temple of Demeter- This was my favorite ancient site inland (we took a half day small group tour to see it). The temple honors Demeter, sister of Zeus and Goddess of Fertility and life. Being that Naxos is the main producer of crops, the Greeks built this temple to Demeter so that she would bless the land.

View from a restaurant in the Venetian Castle

Milos

Milos is also in the Cyclades islands chain and a 2.5 hour ferry ride from Naxos. Just a few photos of this magical island and I was determined to visit. The geological wonders of this place are stunning!

A note about getting around Milos

The easiest way is to see the island is to rent a car or an ATV but we were able to manage with the bus. For 2 euros each way, we made it to all of the places I describe below. We were also fortunate that the bus originated in Addams and the stop was right outside our hotel window. I would say that if you want to see more of the off the beaches in a few days time, rent a vehicle. But know that it possible to see a lot by bus. Just be online as the buses are very prompt!

Sarakiniko Beach

The most stunning beach I have ever seen- amazing rock formations, caves, swimming, cliff jumping. I was blown away. No words, no photos can capture this wonder.

Sarakiniko! Notice the brave souls behind me are cliff jumping!

White rock of Sarakiinko. Be sure to pack your water shoes!

View from the steps to the Venetian Castle in Plaka

Plaka at Sunset

Plaka is set up in the hills making it an ideal place from which to watch the sunset over the Gulf of Milos. It is a beautiful little town with narrow streets, shops, and restaurants advertising “drinks to go” so that you can sip your cocktail while enjoying the sunset. We skipped the drinks and opted to hike up to the Venetian castle to watch the sunset.

Pollonia (this is where I will stay for my next trip to Milos).

It is quiet and more low key than the bustling port of Addamas where we stayed. Pollonia is home to the bakery that makes the BEST baklava I have ever tasted. I would stay here just to visit this bakery daily!

Boat day around Milos!

We scheduled a boat tour with Milos Adventures to take us around the island. We sailed past fishing villages and amazing rock formations. We swam near hot springs and in a blue lagoon. The highlight for me was swimming in a cave with Stu at Kleftiko (a part of the shore only accessible by boat.) We anchored there for two hours and enjoyed lunch on deck. Fresh fruit, fish, salads, wine; this tour is known for offering great food and it did not disappoint. I enjoyed chatting with the other passengers, especially a mom of young children from Thessaloniki (the second largest city located in Northern Greece). She and her husband were enjoying a mini-vacation alone for the first time since having children. I so appreciated her insights on Greece, travel and motherhood. My favorite part of travel is the people I meet!

Kilomo

Kilomo was a delightful bonus Greek island to visit. Just a 30 minute ferry ride from Pollonia it is an easy day trip. Like Milos, renting a car is ideal but I made do with walking and a taxi ride from the beach back to the port. Upon arrival, I spotted a church up on a hill and made my way towards it. Enroute was the best little library I have ever seen made with an old boat! From there I hiked up to the Venetian castle (Kasto). When I arrived at the top, I walked into a church called Genesis of Christ, built in 1592. I sat for a moment inside, dripping with sweat but still put on my scarf to cover my shoulders. It was stunning. I continued my ritual of giving a few euros to light two candles; one for my father and the other for my grandfather.

A Free Little Library Greek Island Style!

Afterwards I stepped outside and found a cafe called Stavento Bar, ordered a Cappuccino Freddo and sat in the shade to write. Right next to me was a woman from New Jersey who spoke Greek fluently. We chatted for a moment and she shared how she prefers Kilomo because it is even quieter than Milos. I made my way to the Agrico beach which was pretty deserted with the exception of one family. The mother, named Maria, introduced herself and recommended I have lunch at a taverna named Sardis and order the local dish; focaccia with caramelized onion and tomato. It was delicious. While I am gluten sensitive at home, I am able to tolerate it in Europe so I devoured the focaccia. I must have sat and read at Sardis for hours. I then asked the waiter to call me a taxi and I went back to the port. I waited for the 5:15 ferry at a restaurant where I could swim and sip my diet coke (or Coke Zero as it is called in Europe).

With 227 islands to visit in Greece, it is difficult to decide where to go! Naxos, Milos and Kilomo turned out to be fantastic choices for our first trip. I LOVE talking about travel and helping others plan trips so feel free to leave comments and questions below! Interested in learning more about Greece, look for my future blogs posts on Athens and Greek food.

Krista Senatore